Bolzano Monday
It was an overcast morning, with worse weather forecast, so I decided to chance the cable car. There were six passengers, with only me taking photos. Each camera click seemed very loud over the 12 minutes.
When I got to the tiny train station at the top, a train was waiting so I hopped on. Then I thought that can't be right, I need to buy a ticket. So back out, hoped I had deciphered the non-English options correctly, bought my ticket and hopped back on. I was aiming for the station at Renon, but was not entirely confident that's where I would end up. However the other passengers were a reasonably fit looking bunch of grey-hairs, so I figured I couldn't go too far wrong. I later found out that I should have validated my ticket by machine, after I purchased it. This must be done prior to each journey. When the ticket checker came, he examined it closely at length. I studiously refused to make eye contact and so he eventually just handed it back and moved on. I may have detected a sigh or shake of the head.
By the time I got to Renon, it was 12 degrees and raining so I abandoned my plan to walk to see the Earth Pyramids. To get there was a 30 minute steep hike. In good conditions I might have made it, but raining, cold and slippery I thought it most unwise. Also I was wearing summer weight pants and sandals and the fog was likely to wipe out the view. In any case, my knees have been quite done-in by the week on the boat, up and down narrow stairs each day. Walking downhill is particularly painful, and I was put to shame by the lithe grey-hairs setting out strongly with their walking poles. New knees may be on order soon than expected when I return.
However, the cable car ride up provided sensational scenery and I got my first glimpse of the long anticipated Dolomites from Renon. A breathtaking and very special moment. I don't know why the Dolomites have held such a fascination for me, but it everything I hoped for when I saw them, even though it was from a distance on a rainy day.
I had a bit of a stroll around, but returned to the station to wait for the next train when the cold and rain became too much. Again, a bit of a wish and prayer as to where I was headed - did I want to go to Oberbozen /Soprabozen? Turns out it's the same place "on Bozen" but most places around here have both Italian and German names. I did my nonchalant-I'm-very-distracted-by-the-view interaction with ticket checker who again seemed to weigh up how much bother it would be to try and explain my crime, and again decided it was too hard.
It was a total white-out by the time I returned in the cable car, so I'm glad I took the opportunity in the morning.
It was raining quite heavily down the hill, so I camped in a small cafe for an hour or so. A nice glass of wine, which the little insects also liked, so it was a battle to fish them out, and place a cover over the glass between sips. Tough life. I had semonlina soup, which I don't recommend. It was very bland, a bit grainy and had the consistency of runny Clag glue. At least it was hot and filling.
I was attempting to eat light as I was booked into a posh restaurant for a set menu 3 courses for dinner. It was very fancy, but because I went at 7pm, felt like a fish in a bowl with all the servers, bread, water, wine, menu, concentrating their efforts on me. My free appetiser was a tall shot glass of cold tomato something - it tasted like cold puree tomato with little cubes of gelatin (I think) on top. Yuck.
Thankfully the server had misunderstood my order and thought I had only ordered the main, not the 3 courses. I ate some of the main (veal cheeks) but wasn't particularly keen. I was happy to escape.
The bar at my hotel was having a Closint Summer party with DJ and free finger food, so I perched there for a while. I enjoyed myself for an hour before the music turned all yoof-like, the smokers invaded and I departed. Time for bed in any case.
When I got to the tiny train station at the top, a train was waiting so I hopped on. Then I thought that can't be right, I need to buy a ticket. So back out, hoped I had deciphered the non-English options correctly, bought my ticket and hopped back on. I was aiming for the station at Renon, but was not entirely confident that's where I would end up. However the other passengers were a reasonably fit looking bunch of grey-hairs, so I figured I couldn't go too far wrong. I later found out that I should have validated my ticket by machine, after I purchased it. This must be done prior to each journey. When the ticket checker came, he examined it closely at length. I studiously refused to make eye contact and so he eventually just handed it back and moved on. I may have detected a sigh or shake of the head.
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| Looking down to Bolzano |
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| From the cable car ascent. This hill and slopes are the sole source of St Magdalana wine. |
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| Aboard my mystery train |
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| Random good doggo waiting at a little station |
However, the cable car ride up provided sensational scenery and I got my first glimpse of the long anticipated Dolomites from Renon. A breathtaking and very special moment. I don't know why the Dolomites have held such a fascination for me, but it everything I hoped for when I saw them, even though it was from a distance on a rainy day.
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| Part of the Western Dolomites |
I had a bit of a stroll around, but returned to the station to wait for the next train when the cold and rain became too much. Again, a bit of a wish and prayer as to where I was headed - did I want to go to Oberbozen /Soprabozen? Turns out it's the same place "on Bozen" but most places around here have both Italian and German names. I did my nonchalant-I'm-very-distracted-by-the-view interaction with ticket checker who again seemed to weigh up how much bother it would be to try and explain my crime, and again decided it was too hard.
It was a total white-out by the time I returned in the cable car, so I'm glad I took the opportunity in the morning.
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| Nothing to see here! |
I was attempting to eat light as I was booked into a posh restaurant for a set menu 3 courses for dinner. It was very fancy, but because I went at 7pm, felt like a fish in a bowl with all the servers, bread, water, wine, menu, concentrating their efforts on me. My free appetiser was a tall shot glass of cold tomato something - it tasted like cold puree tomato with little cubes of gelatin (I think) on top. Yuck.
Thankfully the server had misunderstood my order and thought I had only ordered the main, not the 3 courses. I ate some of the main (veal cheeks) but wasn't particularly keen. I was happy to escape.
The bar at my hotel was having a Closint Summer party with DJ and free finger food, so I perched there for a while. I enjoyed myself for an hour before the music turned all yoof-like, the smokers invaded and I departed. Time for bed in any case.
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| The roof top bar |
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| My champagne cocktail and array of complimentary finger food. Huge serve of fresh salmon. |
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| I wasn't keen on the salmon, so the waiter brought me some strawberries on ice. Yaasss. |
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