Verona - Ciao, Bella

I loved Verona, though I didn't do it justice in terms of exploring.  When I first arrived, I felt a little hemmed in by the narrow alleys and perhaps taller buildings.  I soon got the hang of it and found it surprisingly easy to navigate - interesting, given I have no sense of direction. 

My first delights were a) the realisation I had just arrived in a new city, with no plans or commitments and could do as I pleased and b) finding a treasure of a place to provide me with sensational food and wine; Osteria Caffe Monte Baldo.

While I know my happily coupled friends have wonderful shared lives, my freedom is a treasure. Rocking up to Verona, no plans other than accommodation, I wandered out looking for a feed.  Happily I found Caffe Monte Balso within a few minutes walk for a feast and great Rose, no discussion, no arguments, no compromise. I may or may not have bought snacks and ice cream later at a supermarket to have for dinner, feet up, at home.  Bliss.  What a perfect introduction to Verona.

My first meal in Verona.  Sensational!  10 different tastes, 12 euro

The Platter of Open Bites (12 Euro) contained Shrimp, capsicum, pesto, salami, cream cheese, walnut something, sweet onion, zucchini, artichoke and something else. Yassss.

The Airbnb was in a great central position and luckily my host was on hand to carry my suitcase up the forty stairs.  I loved the high ceilings and the windows and shutters.  Each morning when I opened the shutters, il gatto was watching me from across the street ... A bit creepy on the first day, and then somewhat reassuring.

Il gatto - my neighbour across the road

The river is a focal point of Verona, the second largest river in Italy.  The train ride from Bolzano followed the river most of the way so it was very picturesque.  Although not very wide in most parts, the river is always the most beautiful colour.

One of my very favourite things was buying deli items from Salumeria Gironda, and taking them out the back to picnic with a front row seat to the river. I had read about this place while researching at home, and how lucky it was that is was about 3 minutes walk from my room.  The owner was delightfully patient with me, guiding my choices even though we had no common language. After tasting these, I regret the time I have wasted consuming every other semi-dried tomato in my lifetime.  Sensational. I could not have been happier with my purchases, though it took a mountain of will power to take some photos before inhaling the feast.  I had the terrace to myself for about half an hour and then a family of three joined me (intruders!).  
If you ever come to Verona and don't do this, we are no longer friends.

My picnic basket before unpacking

The eating area

A very unassuming shop front for the treasure within

Me, the Akubra and the river

I went to see the Arena, because what else would someone with bad knees choose to do.  Not really worth the entry fee 10 euro, but would be sensational to attend an opera here; these are only held in the summer.

Piazza Bra - outside the aren

I chose not to pay for a photograph with a couple of gladiators.  Would definitely be a memorable picture though.

I could not get over the number of enticing and well rated cafes and restaurants everywhere I walked.  On my last night I went to Santa Felicita, one minute walk from my room and had this spectacular dish.  I was a little surprised (!) at the size, as I chose from the Starter/First course options.  I asked the server how big it would be.  She said It will be enough for one.  And it was.  Thank goodness I didn't choose something else with my initial order, as was my intention.  Apart from the delicious lobster, the pasta with no apparent sauce was wonderful.   I finally remembered to say No to the obligatory basket of bread delivered upon being seated.  I don't eat it, and it's an extra charge if delivered. 

My sensational dinner

So many tempting restaurants and cafes.  This one outside the Arena.

My Airbnb host was on hand to carry my case down on my last day, ordered me a taxi and waited with me until it arrived.  Great service for a 2 guestroom place.  

I'm not sure who the dude in this statue is, but I like his style.  Sort of determined warrior meets comfy leisure pants.  It also let me to ponder, what sort of a *wombat* would you have to be to sit on the step underneath the plaque on a statue everyone is trying to photograph?  I of course cropped him out.