Last of Paris
My second musee excursion was not as glorious as the first. The metro and RER transfer ride to Musee d'Orsay was more complicated but I preservered. I arrived to find it was Free Sunday (1st Sunday of the month) and unbelievable lines for entry. Not only was the area outside the building packed (see photos) lines extended down the street. I already had a ticket as I had booked my two musees on the one discounted entry, thinking at the time how clever I was. I knew Rodin was free on 1st Sunday, but I swear something I looked at said d'Orsay was free 1st Saturday. Having an actual ticket on free day gets you no special line privileges, so I decamped to a cafe to ponder options. After an ordinary tarte tartin, I decided it was not my day for this adventure so headed home again.
I thought I'd have another ham and cheese toastie at my fav place as consolation. I confidently ordered without looking at the menu, only to be told the kitchen was closed for God's day. Stupid Sunday. So no breakfast apart from ordinary tart and not feeling too happy. Went back to the hotel to plot my next move with the help of the iPad. I found a restaurant I'd considered earlier and praise be! it was open on a Sunday. Not wanting to take any chances of missing out on a table, I booked online for 1.30pm. Cellar Restaurant.
At around 1.15 I arrived at the tiny place. As I walked in, an older-than-me man (who reminded me a lot of Doug Cadioli) called out "Ah, Linda. Welcome" and came over to shake my hand.
It was a 14 seat restaurant with a limited blackboard menu. There were four other diners, all at separate tables, who appeared to be locals. Doug (what else could I call him) explained the menu to me in a combination of English, French and mime. I decided on the veal and mushrooms (Grenadin de veau aux cepes) based on what my neighbour was eating. It was sensational. The potatoes were amazing, maybe kipfler deep-fried, but I couldn't finish them. Sorry Gem.
The place was run by Doug and young chef. I made a git of myself replying Tres Bon to a question from the chef, thinking he was asking how was my lunch. He smiled and repeated his question which was did I want dessert. I had a caffe creme brulee which was a little disappointing, but it didn't take away from the wonderful atmosphere and overall experience. Wine was good!
A jovial goodbye, and what a great save of a day!
My last dinner in Paris was the following evening at Au P'tit Curieux. Again I took metro to get there and it was the only time in the trip I felt a bit nervous. Definitely a red light district between the metro and the dinner. I didn't notice it as much on the return journey, but of course I was wine-emboldened by that stage.
I arrived early and was greeted by my new friend, who was wearing a hat not unlike a small brimmed Akubra. I'm going to call him Felix. I was the only diner as I arrived at the embarrassing time of 6.30pm. I ordered a glass of champagne, and horror of horrors, there was none! Waiting on a delivery of some sort, but Felix assured me he had a white wine which would meet my approval. Felix was a wise man. When I ordered a second glass he congratulated me on my choice, decided he'd have one too, told me not to tell anyone and we toasted our good health - all in mime. :)
I love each and every morsel of bread I had in Europe, but the plain bread I had here was the absolute pinnacle. The bread was delivered to the restaurant by Felix's son (10 yo approx) who clearly had just wandered down to the local for the large bag of bread sticks. Oh to have such a local.
When my dinner of duck breast arrived, Felix brought me a glass of red wine, miming it was free. I don't think he could stand that I was drinking white with duck. The red was even better than the white and I ordered another glass towards the end of the meal. I'll note here that RSL size pours do not occur in France. So, sensational dinner, about to pack up and Felix gave me another complimentary splash of red, "because you like wine". Amen brother.
Some pictures below of my other outings, in between sunshine and showers. I loved the carousel beside the Eiffel Tower. It reminded me of this comedy exchange, not sure where from, but it sounds like Mr Burns and Smithers. How much for the horse tornado? It's a carousel, sir. I must have it.
I thought I'd have another ham and cheese toastie at my fav place as consolation. I confidently ordered without looking at the menu, only to be told the kitchen was closed for God's day. Stupid Sunday. So no breakfast apart from ordinary tart and not feeling too happy. Went back to the hotel to plot my next move with the help of the iPad. I found a restaurant I'd considered earlier and praise be! it was open on a Sunday. Not wanting to take any chances of missing out on a table, I booked online for 1.30pm. Cellar Restaurant.
At around 1.15 I arrived at the tiny place. As I walked in, an older-than-me man (who reminded me a lot of Doug Cadioli) called out "Ah, Linda. Welcome" and came over to shake my hand.
It was a 14 seat restaurant with a limited blackboard menu. There were four other diners, all at separate tables, who appeared to be locals. Doug (what else could I call him) explained the menu to me in a combination of English, French and mime. I decided on the veal and mushrooms (Grenadin de veau aux cepes) based on what my neighbour was eating. It was sensational. The potatoes were amazing, maybe kipfler deep-fried, but I couldn't finish them. Sorry Gem.
The place was run by Doug and young chef. I made a git of myself replying Tres Bon to a question from the chef, thinking he was asking how was my lunch. He smiled and repeated his question which was did I want dessert. I had a caffe creme brulee which was a little disappointing, but it didn't take away from the wonderful atmosphere and overall experience. Wine was good!
A jovial goodbye, and what a great save of a day!
 | |
| Doug and Tres Bon - this is the entire restaurant |
I arrived early and was greeted by my new friend, who was wearing a hat not unlike a small brimmed Akubra. I'm going to call him Felix. I was the only diner as I arrived at the embarrassing time of 6.30pm. I ordered a glass of champagne, and horror of horrors, there was none! Waiting on a delivery of some sort, but Felix assured me he had a white wine which would meet my approval. Felix was a wise man. When I ordered a second glass he congratulated me on my choice, decided he'd have one too, told me not to tell anyone and we toasted our good health - all in mime. :)
I love each and every morsel of bread I had in Europe, but the plain bread I had here was the absolute pinnacle. The bread was delivered to the restaurant by Felix's son (10 yo approx) who clearly had just wandered down to the local for the large bag of bread sticks. Oh to have such a local.
When my dinner of duck breast arrived, Felix brought me a glass of red wine, miming it was free. I don't think he could stand that I was drinking white with duck. The red was even better than the white and I ordered another glass towards the end of the meal. I'll note here that RSL size pours do not occur in France. So, sensational dinner, about to pack up and Felix gave me another complimentary splash of red, "because you like wine". Amen brother.
Some pictures below of my other outings, in between sunshine and showers. I loved the carousel beside the Eiffel Tower. It reminded me of this comedy exchange, not sure where from, but it sounds like Mr Burns and Smithers. How much for the horse tornado? It's a carousel, sir. I must have it.
 |
| The horse tornado and the tower |
This reminds me that our lives are so enriched by our travels, our experiences ( good and bad) and our interactions with others. Yesterday, even before our tour started from Edinburgh, we had the most marvellous day due to a chat with a lovely lady. She, a grandmother and her husband were taking her granddaughter 7 to Alnwick Castle as Miss 7 was a Harry Potter fan. The grandmother described how she was loving life in Edinburgh- all due to her granddaughter ( daughter I guess) as they were originally from Russia and then the Ukraine. You could hear and see the joy in her face and voice. So wonderful 😃
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